VNHRR B&O Kingwood GP9 minor glitches

[Chacal]

I just bought the excellent B&O route, and I am wondering if I'm the only one experimenting this with the GP9. I haven't read any reports or seen any patch.
- the horn on the GP9 has a strange sound, more a beeper than a horn.
- the camera for the head-out view is too close to the hull, so we see through the hull.
- the brake is not self-lapped, but the "lap" position is labeled "self-lap".

I can probably fix those minor glitches myself, but first I want to know if they are real and if there's a fix.

[buzz456]

Yes horn is weak. I substituted. I think what you are seeing is the sun shade in the head out position not really looking through the hull. Lastly you are correct about the lapping. That one I just ignored like most of the sometimes funky braking in TS.

[Schnauzahpowahz]

Fantastic route but yes, the horn is sad. The brakes seem slow but likely relevant to the time period.

"Immersion breaking" it may be, but leave the brake pressure on about just under half full application and use the throttle accordingly. Sure, the brake shoes would melt, but itll be a much less teeth gnashing experience

[buzz456]

I took a look and the horn is actually from the RDC that's why it was so funky. All kinds of S3L to substitute.

[Chacal]

Yes, I saw this and also this Steam forums post by Michael which explains it:

By the way, the horn on the Springfield Line's GP9 sounds so weird because it isn't a horn. It's a whistle like on a steam engine, just blown with compressed air instead of steam. A Hancock Air Whistle, to be precise, which was a bit of a New Haven RR specialty as not many other US railroads used them.

Now I'm using the default GP9 horn, and moved the head-out cameras a bit.
Also I'm looking at swapping the GP9s with RF-16s with your excellent B&O repaint.

[GreatNortherner]

Hi,

Regarding the brakes -- if I remember correctly, these are stock DTG brake settings but, as with the Springfield Line, with the steam-engine-like brake controller which I think leads to (on average) slower brake application due to the apply zone working with a percentage of how much the valve gets opened.

As for going down the steep descents, the real railroads would have most likely used retainers on a route like this, but I'm fairly sure that applying the brakes on the top and then pulling the train over the less severely steep bits was also common practice. The gradients are not that long, the brake shoes surely can cope with that. Maybe it was a combination of both: set retainers for the average gradient, add some extra train brake force for the maximum gradient, then use the throttle to keep the train at speed until you've reached the bottom of the hill. In RW, I sometimes use the hand brakes on a number of cars to stand in for retainers but it takes quite some trial and error to figure out how many handbrakes a certain grade requires -- but at least in RW I can "cheat" and set/release hand brakes while my train is moving.

I think I read somewhere that "power braking" was a fairly common on mountain grades before dynamic brakes. It might be the only way for the engineer to keep the train moving over short stretches of less steep gradient where releasing and applying would use too much air to quickly. And then on passenger trains it's also a handy tool to control the slack, especially in a train that also carries freight (express) cars.

Cheers
Michael

[Schnauzahpowahz]

^


In fact one of the scenarios require you to set the brake as such, right?


The route is beautiful, all the mines, old stations, switchbacks and steep short grades. A challenge, but a fun one

Theres always the option to swap stock. Think ive seen folks using a B&O gp30 here

[buzz456]

Or maybe a ratty old well used F7.

Screenshot_B&O Kingwood Branch_39.39627--79.74301_12-01-01.jpg

[mindenjohn]

I think that Buzz keeps a handful of F7s in his back pocket to pull out whenever the railroad needs one. Rather like the real railroads about 45-50 years ago and they all look good.

[Chacal]

I like the brakes, for some reason I find the old non-self-lapping brakes easier to use than the self-lapping ones.
I think (but I'm no engineer) that controlling speed downgrade by applying a minimal reduction, then using dynamic brakes, is a pretty standard procedure. I've read about it in a few places, maybe Al Krug's site. Anyway at very low speeds brakes and wheel liners have plenty of time to shed the heat, and brakepads are replaced regularly.
I loved the 3 tutorial scenarios, pleasant feeling when you finally feel you are in control of your train.

Has anyone seen a GP9 (or any old GP) repaint with the old B&O paint scheme? It was a beauty and I just remembered I used to have one in HO scale.

IMG_2200_edited.JPG

[GreatNortherner]

What epic weathering on that F7 trio! Buzz!

Come to think of it, the F7 might be rather convenient up and down the switch backs -- there's always a cab facing the right way, if the engineer is willing to walk back and forth.

Theres always the option to swap stock. Think ive seen folks using a B&O gp30 here

Check the Workshop. I don't know if or if not the tags work for this route, they don't for many DLCs, so you may have to rely on the search field and some luck. But I have seen a variety of scenarios that use the GP30s from DTM and also some other engines if I'm not mistaken. There was also at least one that used Mike's 4-4-0... now that must be an edge-of-your-seat experience!

Has anyone seen a GP9 (or any old GP) repaint with the old B&O paint scheme? It was a beauty and I just remembered I used to have one in HO scale.

I'm not aware of any having been made -- yet! That beautiful livery was actually one of the reasons that made me build the torpedo tube Geep.

Cheers!
Michael

[Chacal]

Well it's a no-go for the RF-16. Can't make them couple to the B&O hoppers.

[GogebicChief]

Sorry, to Hi-jack this thread, but I asked in another thread, if with all the mines that are in this route, if there is an older one with a Steam Hoist? Or Maybe a shaft mine withe the cable pulleys exposed on the top of the elevator shaft. I am looking for one, to use in the Lakeside Route. Thank You for Your time, Stefan

[buzz456]

Well it's a no-go for the RF-16. Can't make them couple to the B&O hoppers.

I confirm. Did you try any other cars on the route?

[buzz456]

Chacal, check your PM.