Raildriver for sale

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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby GSkid » Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:57 pm

robbit wrote:
What is the isolation switch? I have a rail driver but do not recognize this switch


It's not a switch on the RailDriver unit, it's a switch inside real locomotives. It's labeled as the engine RUN switch. There is the START position for when starting the loco up. Then there is the ISOLATION position which is when it's in a consist, it can sit and idle without responding to any throttle input from it's own controls or those of a lead controlling locomotive. The last position is RUN which lets you throttle up and run the locomotive.

Jump to about the 1:55 mark in this video and watch this SD70ACe fire up. He eventually goes to notch-8 from a dead standstill. As it passes by you'll hear the first loco at full power and will hear the second loco merely idling. That 2nd locomotive is in isolation and isn't responding to the throttle up of the lead loco. The most likely reason this 2nd loco is in isolation is to save fuel while going over a relatively flat part of the route that the lead loco can handle all on it's own. Then once it gets to sections with grades later on, that one loco isn't likely to handle on it's own, they will take it out of isolation and it will contribute power to the train. The video proves just how powerful a single modern loco can be on flat track while pulling a relatively long train. !!*ok*!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMpYs8Mj ... ure=fvwrel


Run 8 has this same switch inside it's locomotives and it must be clicked to RUN in order for the throttle to respond to your controls. Otherwise you go nowhere as I did at first until I figured out why I wasn't moving! !DUH!



To Rich_S ....

Yes... technically it's called the RUN switch but I personally like calling it the isolation switch for some reason even though that's only one function of it.

As for the power supply... it wasn't in the box. If that's due to it missing when he bought it or that he misplaced it and doesn't remember is all a moot point to me. If I want the rumble bad enough I'll go buy a power supply to do so. As for the 3.5mm cord? I just hook my speakers up directly to my laptop's headphone jack. No need to pass it though the RailDriver. *!greengrin!*
EMD 2-strokes rule! My all time favorite: SD45X also love the SD40-2/SD40T-2/SD45-2/SD45T-2/DD35A/DDA40X/SD70ACe/SD80ACe

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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby Rich_S » Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:09 pm

GSkid wrote: To Rich_S ....

Yes... technically it's called the RUN switch but I personally like calling it the isolation switch for some reason even though that's only one function of it.


I thought you were talking about button 15 on the Rail Driver unit, which for some applications has to be pressed after you enter the application to enable the Rail Driver unit. You are correct, the switch you are referring to on the prototype locomotives is known as the "Isolation Switch" or "Engine Control" switch depending on which model locomotive you are referencing. On older EMD's the horizontal position was "Start/Stop/Isolate" and the vertical position is "Run". On newer EMD's they've added another position labeled "DB Only" On most GE's you have 4 positions, "Jog", "Start/Stop", "Isolate" and "Run". I don't have the Run 8 simulator, but I've heard it has all of the bells and whistles of the prototype.

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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby GSkid » Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:01 am

Just a heads up for those that don't have a RailDriver. I have found some locos that don't seem to fully support it. Mind you that I didn't try all the buttons and levers. This pertains just to the following buttons and levers on the RailDriver: Horn - Emergency stop switch - sand - bell - reverser - throttle/dynamic brakes - train brake - independent brake - wipers - lights

I tested on the following USA locos I own: SD70s, SD75s, SD40s, SD45s, GP7s, GP9s, SW10s, SW1500s, F7s, F40PHs, Dash 9s, ES44ACs


The results......I'll only name the locos that have problems and what they are. Everything else worked fine on these otherwise.......



On the Dash 9: Train brake lever did nothing. Independent brake worked FINE.

On the SD45: I couldn't get the throttle to work... but dynamic brakes were FINE. The emergency stop switch doesn't work... but you can go into emergency with the train brake lever.

On the SD70M: The train brake lever does nothing. Independent brake worked FINE.

On the SD70MAC:
The train brake lever does nothing. Independent brake worked FINE. Strangely the SD70ACes and the SD70M-2s have no issues.

The sand button won't stay on with any of the locos. You must hold it down. And.... the light switch is finicky.

All the other US locos I tried worked great. The OLDER EMDs I own such as the SD40-2, SD40T-2, SW1500, SW10, GP7, GP9, F40PH and the F7 seemed to the have the best throttle curve response on the RailDriver. The ES44AC, Dash 9s, SD70s and SD75s work pretty well too. Never tried the European locos yet with it.
EMD 2-strokes rule! My all time favorite: SD45X also love the SD40-2/SD40T-2/SD45-2/SD45T-2/DD35A/DDA40X/SD70ACe/SD80ACe

Southern Pacific RR! Bloody nose/Serif lettering - Donner Pass/Tehachapi Pass/Cajon Pass/UP Coast Line


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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby buzz456 » Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:19 am

I just moved this problems since it has evolved to that. :D
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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby Griphos » Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:13 pm

On the Dash 9 and SD70s, there's a combined throttle brake lever in the real loco, so with the Raildriver, you use the throttle, in the dynamic braking range (above the neutral notch) to brake. That's why the train brake lever doesn't work. I don't know about the SD45. I stopped using my RD before I got that one. I could hook it back up to check.

By the way, anyone else want a Raildriver?
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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby Chacal » Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:25 pm

GSkid wrote:The sand button won't stay on with any of the locos. You must hold it down. And.... the light switch is finicky.


To be fair, this is also the case when using the keyboard.
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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby Rich_S » Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:23 pm

Chacal wrote:
GSkid wrote:The sand button won't stay on with any of the locos. You must hold it down. And.... the light switch is finicky.


To be fair, this is also the case when using the keyboard.


Using the keyboard, press and hold the "X" key, then press and hold the "Shift" key, now release the "X" key while still holding the "Shift" key and finally release the "Shift" key. The sand will stay on until you press the "X" key again.
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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby Rich_S » Sat Feb 02, 2013 8:05 pm

GSkid wrote:Just a heads up for those that don't have a RailDriver. I have found some locos that don't seem to fully support it. Mind you that I didn't try all the buttons and levers. This pertains just to the following buttons and levers on the RailDriver: Horn - Emergency stop switch - sand - bell - reverser - throttle/dynamic brakes - train brake - independent brake - wipers - lights

I tested on the following USA locos I own: SD70s, SD75s, SD40s, SD45s, GP7s, GP9s, SW10s, SW1500s, F7s, F40PHs, Dash 9s, ES44ACs


The results......I'll only name the locos that have problems and what they are. Everything else worked fine on these otherwise.......



On the Dash 9: Train brake lever did nothing. Independent brake worked FINE.

On the SD45: I couldn't get the throttle to work... but dynamic brakes were FINE. The emergency stop switch doesn't work... but you can go into emergency with the train brake lever.

On the SD70M: The train brake lever does nothing. Independent brake worked FINE.

On the SD70MAC:
The train brake lever does nothing. Independent brake worked FINE. Strangely the SD70ACes and the SD70M-2s have no issues.

The sand button won't stay on with any of the locos. You must hold it down. And.... the light switch is finicky.

All the other US locos I tried worked great. The OLDER EMDs I own such as the SD40-2, SD40T-2, SW1500, SW10, GP7, GP9, F40PH and the F7 seemed to the have the best throttle curve response on the RailDriver. The ES44AC, Dash 9s, SD70s and SD75s work pretty well too. Never tried the European locos yet with it.


I've found on some of my locomotives like the default SD40-2, the wiper switch works backwards. Full is actually off and Off is Full !**duh*!! Also another problem I have is the MPH keeps switching to KPH, no matter how many times I press the Speed MPH button. Note: This is for the Rail Driver Speed Display only, the HUD speed display shows MPH. Other than that, all other buttons seem to function properly on the locomotives I'm using and the sand trick works with the Rail Driver as well. That is press and hold the Sand button, then press and hold the "Shift" button, release the Sand button while still holding the "Shift" button, then release the "Shift" button. To shut off the sand, press and release the Sand button.
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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby GSkid » Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:00 am

Griphos wrote:On the Dash 9 and SD70s, there's a combined throttle brake lever in the real loco, so with the Raildriver, you use the throttle, in the dynamic braking range (above the neutral notch) to brake. That's why the train brake lever doesn't work. I don't know about the SD45. I stopped using my RD before I got that one. I could hook it back up to check.

By the way, anyone else want a Raildriver?


Yeah I forgot about that.

What's with people ditching their RailDrivers? I'm happy with mine.


To Rich_S....

I never pay attention to what the speedometer is set to. I just know it's never matched what's on my HUD speedometer.
EMD 2-strokes rule! My all time favorite: SD45X also love the SD40-2/SD40T-2/SD45-2/SD45T-2/DD35A/DDA40X/SD70ACe/SD80ACe

Southern Pacific RR! Bloody nose/Serif lettering - Donner Pass/Tehachapi Pass/Cajon Pass/UP Coast Line


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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby Rich_S » Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:46 pm

GSkid wrote:To Rich_S....

I never pay attention to what the speedometer is set to. I just know it's never matched what's on my HUD speedometer.


Hi GSKid,
According to the Rail Driver instructions, if you press the #15 key (left key on the bottom row of keys) it's suppose to switch the Rail Driver display to MPH. The next key to the right, the #16 key when pressed is suppose to switch the Rail Driver display to KPH. Try pressing the #15 key on your Rail Driver and see if it stays in MPH mode, or if it keeps switching back to the KPH display. I trying to verify if it's a problem with my installation or a Rail Driver problem when running Rail Works.


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Re: Raildriver for sale

Unread postby GSkid » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:18 am

Yes it does work.... thanks. Although the Raildriver basically rounds up the speed to the next mph..... as in 14.5mph to 15.4mph displays as 15mph on RD's LED display. That's dumb! It should show 15mph AT the 15mph mark! !*not-ok*!
EMD 2-strokes rule! My all time favorite: SD45X also love the SD40-2/SD40T-2/SD45-2/SD45T-2/DD35A/DDA40X/SD70ACe/SD80ACe

Southern Pacific RR! Bloody nose/Serif lettering - Donner Pass/Tehachapi Pass/Cajon Pass/UP Coast Line


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